Monday, September 10, 2007

Pork marathon





Nat asked for it, so here we go.
I've spent the last 12 hours working with the pig meat. In the morning I called my "American" butcher Joe Gates in Vacaville. He's cutting up Little Girl--loins, legs, boned shoulders, lard--she'll be ready on Wednesday. Then I headed over to Eccolo and watched an awesome butcher take apart Big Guy in the Italian style. In 3 hours we had two proscuittos salted and in the process of curing, 2 shoulders (for salumi), 6 pancettas (!), 4 gorgeous loins, 2 tenderloins, a ton of leaf lard, some bones, and 2 racks of ribs. Chris and Samin said the pig looked really good, and that I had done a good job. I can't help but feel so proud of my pig. To make the proscuitto I rubbed the leg's skin with salt, sort of massaging it in. It was so wonderful to really feel the pig, to get fat all over my hands, and make a connection with the pig again. I felt like, Oh, my friend, here's your buttocks, they're so nice. Chris said in Italy the butchers talk about women while they rub the legs.
I left the resto after a delicious BLT with a bunch of meat to process. First I put the loins and ribs in the freezer (thanks Daniel and Claudia!). Then I roasted the bones and boiled them in water to make pork stock. Then I rendered the fat. Then I made a county pate with the liver (Sylvia did get me the liver--and in the bag there's also two kidneys and the heart). I don't have high hopes for the pate--but I had to experiment with this huge organ. I ground up some meat and fat, lined the terrine with a big strip of back fat, mixed up the diced liver with eggs and white wine and flour. Cooked it for 2 hours. Around 9:30, I decided to eat dinner. I made a cuc, corn, tomato salad with bits of pork cracklings (you should smell my house). Next, I rubbed the tenderloin with fennel pollen, salt and pepper then seared it in a cast iron pan. Samin gave me some vibrant Tuscan-style pepper jelly as a sauce to pair with the pork. The meat with the jelly was the best thing I've ever tasted--it's total heaven.
Bill has been telling people we aren't going to raise a pig again, then he took a bite of the tenderloin and as he chewed he kept saying wow, wow. Then he paused and asked with a titch of paranoia: Do we have enough?

8 comments:

apcowboy@hotmail.com said...

you can find a lot of infor about pork at,
http://groups.msn.com/MEATCUTTERSCLUB

Geggie said...

I'm so happy that they situation with Sylvia has turned around into a wonderful experience.

Unknown said...

I have been following this saga with interest and amazement, and now my stomach is growling. I am remined of a Portugese saying I heard once, something to the effect: "The hapiest times in life are the first year of marraige and the week after you butcher the pig."

duane marcus Facebook me! said...

makes my mouth water!

Riana Lagarde said...

I can smell it from here makes my stomach grumble.

ps i still hate sylvia and think that her hair was fake too.

eauque said...

Bill's a pork junkie!

Rebecca said...

"Bill has been telling people we aren't going to raise a pig again, then he took a bite of the tenderloin and as he chewed he kept saying wow, wow. Then he paused and asked with a titch of paranoia: Do we have enough?"

Oh, my. This is terribly familiar. Silly boys. (Mine's named William too, as it happens.)

Novella Carpenter said...

rebecca;
i read your post about peppers yesterday and was laughing my ass off. yes, those boys are silly. ever since i started the meat processing, bill is looking at me with this, i don't know, a blend of passion/respect/wonder. i made tacos with carnitas and chipotle peppers last night for dinner and we were just dying how good they were. it's such a wonderful time.